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It's easy to be 'too' gentle when running-in the Dukes LC4 engine... The most comprehensive way to do it, is to use the bike with plenty/often gear changes, trying to avoid running the same engine revolution (RPM) for too long a time. Try to avoid long motorways, but if you can't , at least vary the engine speed (RPM) by changing from top gear to 4th gear, and allowing the bike to rev higher in 4th...and then back to top gear, etc etc.. City riding is perfect for the running-in period, as this allows for plenty of gear changes, constant change in engine revolutions etc...city riding is where you will feel the gearbox become smoother and softer, as the mechanical parts 'rub' on each other, giving the required blending of the individual components... People often say that you must not go past the 4,500 RPM when running the engine for the 1st 1,000kms...although this is good general advice, experienced motorcyclists who have a 'feel' for the 'pull' of the engine, can safely exceed this limit, by + 1,000 RPM, with no worries.. However, there are requirements that MUST be obeyed, regardless of RPM maximums.. These are: do NOT change gears at higher RPMs, try to change at maximum 4,000 RPM...Do NOT allow the engine to have a very heavy load, in other words, it is better to run smoothly at higher RPM than to allow the engine to pull a high gear at low RPM....what is important is the mechanical strain that you are giving the engine....the less the better..... Also, start using the bike/engine as soon as you start it......although you may think it is better to let it warm up 1st, this is not the case, when you are running-in the bike....modern oils and engineering tolerances are so efficient that it can be difficult to get the internal engine parts to 'rub' against each other with friction....so, start riding from cold, but obviously, keep the RPMs low, and avoid aggressive riding or riding in the wrong gear...we're looking for friction NOT damage ! Most importantly, and almost never mentioned is : HEAT CONDITIONING We recommend that the engine is not used for more than 30 minutes at a time, while the engine is still running-in. So, after each and every 30 minutes of riding, stop the engine and allow the engine to cool down, for 5-6 minutes....This allows for the metal parts/bodies of the engine/transmission to reach their working temperature AND to cool down again...the idea is to allow the metal to 'temper' from the continuos warming and cooling...doing this will avoid any potential 'hot spots', ie parts of engine that have reached higher temperatures than other, due to increased friction areas while parts are 'blending' together... . . . AFTER the 1,000kms Perform 1st service, and use a high quality 100% Synthetic oil.. Regular oil changes are perhaps the best engine protection you can offer your Duke. This is especially important for City users. Do NOT use: Do NOT use any 'oil additives' such as 'Teflon' based friction reducers. Reason: After extensive research from DUPONT (USA), the manufactures of the PTFE additive, that is used in these 'oils', DUPONT concluded that they are NOT suitable for this application. In fact, their tests showed, that all of the PTFE particles (PTFE is a SOLID, thats powdered down and added to these 'oils') were collected by the engines oil-filter/s, and as such not only was it a waste of PTFE - BUT - the filters good become blocked by the PTFE, and therefore would stop 'filtering' the main engine oil...So concerned were they by the results - THAT - they (DUPONT) retracted the sale of PTFE/TEFLON for commercial use in this application.. In other words: IF the manufacturers agreed that the additives were harnful, and would not take liability, do NOT believe any other claims about these products. However, we have come across a UK manufactured product - Activ8 - that does 'not' contain any PTFE solids etc. We have used this on our bikes as an extra safeguard, and have seen this product demonstrated to us on cold metal and it was most impressive. An interesting side line...
O.K. - so we agree NOT to use these PTFE-Teflon based . Well, NOT for the engine or engine oils. HOWEVER, these 'oil-additives' are indeed very good at lowering friction levels when used at normal temperatures, and in applications where filtering is NOT used.. CHAINS - The use of these oil-additives to lubricate/oil your chain is a VERY good idea ! as these 'oils' are very 'slippery' they will prolong your chain life AND give you extra power, through the additional reduction in friction in your chain drive... Simply rotate the rear wheel, while applying a few drops onto the chain...!!
It is our experience, that the use of a good - automatic chain oiling device - fitted to your motorcycle, will give you a trouble free + longer life chain + final transmission parts (Sprockets/chainwheel).. There are 2 types of 'oilers' that we know of :- SCOTTOILER™ Works by oiling the change, as the engine is being used......connected to the vacumn feed of the bikes carburator, it senses the engine use, so the higher the revs/speed - the more the oiler will oil the chain. A Scottoiler is a unique piece of equipment, priced at around £ 60 (UK Sterling), it offers a great way to automatically look after your chain......chains have been know to last 2-3 times longer using the Scottoiler.. CHAINTEC™ The Chaintec oilers also automatically oils the chain...however, they work on 'inertia', ie by the change in speed or braking force created by your bike.......they are much simpler than the SCOTTOILER, are very easy to fit, and also will extend the life of the chain.....their only weakness, by comparision to the Scottoiler, is that they do not oil the chain at constant speeds.....i.e unless you are accelerating OR braking they will not oil...however, they are priced at around £40 so represent good value, and they are certainly worth fitting to your bike.. - chain oilers ~ Conclusion - Scottoiler™ - ...slightly more expensive, and extra time to fit...however, it is always working and works 'more' the faster you go....for chain-life luxury, this is the one to buy.. Chaintec™ - (Motion activated) a very good oiler, very easy and quick to fit....cheaper to buy too...most suitable for 'city' riding as it relies on stop/start momentum for activation. **Chaintec now have an electronic oiler, which is motion activated. This overcomes any limitations and is still very easy to fit.
City riders will already know about this problem... The Duke from new, is quite highly geared, in its final drive ration. 17 : 38 as standard. 17 represents the number of 'teeth' in the front sprocket. 38 represents the number of 'teeth' in the rear sprocket. This gearing is great for open country roads, faster A roads and generally where higher speeds are required...please note higher 'speeds' and NOT faster accelaration... We recommend, to slightly LOWER the final drive gearing, so that the engine pulls more 'cleanly' at lower RPM, and also so the bike accelerates even faster, allowing for more fun, and most importantly for City riders - allowing for a smoother responding engine, with less transmission 'hesitation' ... Simply changing the - front sprocket - to a 16 'tooth' size is the answer.. Use a KTM 16-T sprocket, as it includes the rubber damper as used in the standard 17-T. For a in-between ratio, keep the 17-T but use a 39-T for the rear sprocket. Talon manufacture a high quality lightweight unit. For all driving conditions, EXCEPT city traffic, we recommend staying with KTMs original ratio 17/38 which is an excellent compromise.
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