The Grampians
Halls Gap
22nd March 2000
Thankfully, left the Adelaide City Backpackers early, picked up by Wild Life tours for my journey to Halls Gap in The Grampians.
The trip to my destination was long and without the relief of airconditioning, uncomfortable. Six hours before we reached our first real tourist attraction, McKenzies Falls, in The Grampians.
A great spot for a swim, but I declined and very soon the pool was invaded by about sixty schoolkids. We made a hasty retreat and went on to Reids Lookout and The Balconies. Famed for its views of the range and the "Jaws of Death" rock formation.
Last stop before dropoff was Boroka Lookout, and views of Halls Gap. Nestled amongst two strips of mountain range, an impressive setting and I was looking forward to my short stay here.
Booked into the YHA, a temprorary location at Lakeside Caravan Park. Not ideal, given it was 4km from town, but the beds were comfy in the cabin, with kitchen, shower, toilet, and TV. I was with an English couple, Mark and Elle, who were on the tour, and a Canadian named Fiona, who had arrived a day earlier. We watched TV, cooked some dodgy omelettes, and settled in for the night.
23rd March 2000
Up at 9am, joined the tour again, which was good of them seeing as I hadn't paid for the 2 day trip.
Clara, our guide, took us on a 4km walk up the Boronia Peak, a track she had never done before. Well worth the effort, with a superb 360 degree panorama of the area. After the climb we went to lunch in town.
The majority turned down another walk, opting to stay in the park. Four of us chose to do the 2 hour Pinnacles Walk, and it turned out to be the highlight. Countless rock formations, Grand Canyond, and a stunning view at the top. I recommend this too everyone who takes the time to visit the region.
Picked up at 5pm, by Clara, returned to town, quickly grabbed some beers from the supermarket, then returned to the hostel. Mark and Elle moved on, fiona and I were joined by a couple of Irish lads. Relaxed, watched some TV, before bed.
24th March 2000
Up at 9.30am, did some washing in the morning, and got a lift into town in the afternoon with Fiona who was leaving for Adelaide.
After lunch, tackled the Chataqua Peak walk on my own. Walking through a fern grove, up a rocky area to the peak, which took about an hour. More views of Halls Gap from an elevation of 200 metres. Climbed down the other side, through open forest, via the dry Clematis Falls, to Mount Victory road, and back into town.
From the town, walked back to the hostel, a distance of 4km, which took an hour or so, a total of nine this afternoon.
New arrivals, a group travelling together, and a strange mixture at that! Irish and Dutch girls, English and Swiss-French men. Later another Englishman arrived.
Sat up with a few beers, went to bed about midnight, but an hour later I had moved into the lounge because of the snoring. Slept on the couch!
25th March 2000
Time to move on today, but not until 5.30pm., when pick up was arranged. With time to kill, I embarked on another bush walk. This one began at Lake Bellfield, following an old 4 wheel drive track on a steady incline for a couple of clicks, before joining a trail to Sundial Peak. On this stretch, I was startled by a rustling in the bush, only to see two kangaroos peering at from about 20 feet away. I continued up the track to Viewpoint, where you could see the lake in all its withered glory!
This took me an hour and a half, and with time, and water, disappearing quickly, I did not really have time to continue on to the peak, so returned the same route. On the way down, I disturbed the same two roos.
Caught a taxi into town and sat in the park, with my lunch, read my book, listened to some music, dodged some nasty looking March Flies, and was suprised by a massive grey kangaroo that decided to skip past me, and across the high street!
The bus arrived at 5pm, and shortly after we were heading back to Melbourne, via Ballarat. Tried hard to ignore this man from Thailand sitting in front of me with the most obvious "Syrup" perched on his head.
We stopped in Ballarat to drop a Danish girl, and we went for a Mcdonalds. The girl ordered a medium fries and an ice cream. Fine....until she began eating them together. I asked if she was pregnant, but no, just wierd!
By the time we arrived at Queensberry Hill YHA, it was dark, and nearly 9pm. At least when the clocks go back tomorrow, I get an extra hour in bed.
26th March 2000
The extra hour in bed was welcome, and I got up at nine. Did little in the morning, updated my website and then made my way to Melbourne Cricket Groun (MCG) to watch the Aussie Rules Football, Collingwood Magpies v Carlton Blues. 82,667 had gathered, and it was a good day for the Pies, leading by 45 poiunts at half time. It was clear to me that this match wasn't going to be close, and as such the atmosphere suffered, so I returned to the hostel.
In the evening, went to the Keepers Arms to watch the Celtic-Rangers match, and in the hope of West Ham v Wimbledon at 1am.
The barman couldn't guarantee that they would stay open for the match, but I hung around just in case. Many beers, and seven hours later, I staggered home, West Ham 2-1 victors, and di Canio goal of the season!
got to bed about 3.30am.
27th March 2000
Late rise, stamped out the hangover before it matured, with a pill, then went about arranging transport and accommodation in Adelaide. Had to go into the city to get things sorted.
Returned to hostel, tired and not feeling like doing the tourist bit! In the evening, watched The Academy Awards on TV.
28th March 2000
Another boring day, looking forward to leaving Melbourne. Went to the Gaol in the morning, a couple of hours spent looking around the cells, learning about the characters who inhabited and had their necks stretched in the prison. Also home to the infaour Ned Kelly, who also ended his days here at the end of a rope.
After lunch, returned to the hostel, and relaxed for the rest of the day.
29th March 2000
Up early to check out before 10am. Did some washing and tried to amuse myself before my coach back to Adelaide in the evening.
Thoughts on Melbourne? I didn't "Warm" to it, like Sydney, all those years ago. Not my cup of tea, cities. Although I had a couple of good nights here over my 3 visits, went to the MCG, saw the Gaol, I was struggling to keep myself busy. Problem with city hostels, is that they are big, and you can find yourself lost easily amongst all these people. Don't get me wrong, I struck up conversations with people, but like all travellers, it is the same old crap "Where you been? Where you goin'?", and you never actually manage to get beyond that, never find much else out about them.
It really is true that you can be more lonely in a crowd, than being in the middle of nowhere by yourself.
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