The Road to Alice Springs
Wednesday, 5th April 2000
First to be picked up at 7am, for the 8 day Face the Outback tour to Alice Springs, with Wayward Bus. Our driver was Hugh, and we took an hour in Adelaide before leaving with a full bus of 21. Travelled along the Main North Road to Clare Valley, stopping at Clare to stock up on beer and anything we needed for the next few days.
We moved on, along the Flinders Ranges to Laura, for lunch, then Quorn for a short break and a look at "Quornocopia", a shop where we all purchased our hats with flynet, in readiness for the flies.
A lot of travelling today, passed the Kanyaka Ruins, where early settlers tried to set up a wheat and sheep station, finally giving up after a number of years.
Arrived at Wilpena campground late afternoon. Set up camp, my first chance at using my tent. Evening spent getting to know some of the others.
Thursday, 6th April 2000
up in the morning for a walk into Wilpena Pound, shaped like a giant amphitheatre, a good spot for early settlers to keep their livestock. The beginnings of a cold coming on, Kangaroo Island was beginning to take its toll.
After lunch, some washing, we left Wilpena, making our way through some great scenery in the Flinders Ranges. We stopped at Blinman, with a population of thirty, for a beer in the local pub. Got my first hint here, that the elderly Dutch couple were a pain in the arse, as he pushed in front of me at the bar!
Arrived at Angorichina, our accommodation in the Tourist Village, a remote building originally used for returned soldiers recovering from Tuberculosis.
Had a barbecue tonight, Hugh, a former chef, cooked a delicious Kangaroo! Sat around the campfire, talking to Graham and Tess from England, amongst others, while we suffered the musical tastes of Bruce, also from Old Blighty.
Friday, 7th April 2000
We left Angorichina and the Flinders Ranges, passing through Parachilna Gorge, and stopping at Copley, famous for its bakery and Quandong Pies. Once again, Arnold, the dutchman displayed his arrogance, being bloody rude when ordering coffee, and barking at me when I politely pointed out where to pick it up from the counter. Decided it would be best to keep clear of him for his own safety! Hugh was already getting pissed off by his constant questioning about things he had already told the group.
From Copley, on to Leigh Creek with its open-cut mines for coal. Suggestions were made about pushing Arnold in, and it was tempting.
Quick stop at some Ochre Pits, and Marree. We went to visit an eccentric called Talc Alf, who sculpted from Talcom rock. This guy was definitely not playing with the full pack, with his ramblings on just about everything. Whilst everyon wandered around his home, I helped change a tyre with Hugh and Kim, an Australian guy on the tour.
Then it was time to play a joke on the group. Hugh told them about the worlds first ever solar powered telephone, and that it was a free line. He said that he had a call to make to the office, then I would ring home to say Happy Birthday to my father. We pulled up to the phone, nailed to a tree in the middle of nowhere. I pretended to make the call, and Hugh had them fooled and got them to sing "Happy Birthday". Needless to say, the phone was just a handset that someone had put up for a joke.
On we went, passing the Oodnadatta Track, Curdimurka Siding, where a riotous Outback Ball is held every 2 years, and Lake Eyre South. We were fortunate to see water in this huge salt lake, the most that had been seen in there for 40 years. It would be soon be full, a sight not seen in White Australian history.
We pulled into William Creek late afternoon, the expected wall of flies had not materialised, and we had a beer in the pub before driving out of town to set up bushcamp at Anna Creek
After dinner, sat around the campfire, everyone took it in turn to tell something about themselves, which took an age! After, Graham, Tess, Helen and I wandered away, to view the night sky away from the light in camp.
Saturday, 8th April 2000
Breakfast, and broke camp before the arrival of the flies at dawn. Off on our way across Anna Creek Station, the biggest cattle station in the world at 30,113 square kilometres. Various breaks along the way for Hugh to get his nicotine fix, including the Dingo Fence just outside Coober Pedy, the longest fence in the world at 9600km.
Arrived at Coober Pedy late morning, what a dump! I was feeling really rough, my cold was at its worse.
Had a town tour, including the Underground Catholic Church. Arnold was true to form, and rang the bell outside, whilst people were inside worshipping.
After the tour, used the internet then returned to our cave for a sleep. Went to dinner at a pizza place, after which everybody went to the pub, except me. I went to bed, feeling miserable in the heat. I was close to calling it a day, and going straight to Alice.
Sunday, 9th April 2000
Glad to see the back of Coober Pedy, for our drive to Uluru. A long drive of over 700km, stopping for sunrise and then at roadhouses along the way.
As we approached our destination, it was evident that sunset would be a washout, rain came in as it did when I was here 5 years ago. We made the best of it, despite the added annoyance of an overbooked campsite at Yulara making our stay cramped.
Later that evening, hugh took the girls into the bus to discuss "Womens Business" He had told us all that he was one of only two people who knew what was said in these Aboriginal meetings, and that he would discuss business with the men later on the trip.
Monday, 10th April 2000
Up early to see sunrise. we arrived at the National Park first, before it had opened, and was well set up in the viewing area for the show. every other group enviously eyed our pancakes and coffee that Hugh cooked on the barbie for us.
Met up with Duncan, Carol, sarah and Leonne again, they were with Mulga Tours. They were off with Travelabout to Perth the next day, the same route I would be taking a week later.
After the sunrise, we walked around the base, an excellent few hours exploring the rock. Rain had forced the climb to be shut, not that I would have done it anyway.
Afternoon at the campsite, relaxing before another stab at the sunset. Surprise, surprise, it rained again, and we left the viewing area early, to get back to camp.
Evening, and there were 42 of us in the same area, cooking was a pain, so a few beers were in order to make the best of it! We had a Didgeridoo demonstration, and a few more beers round the campfire before bed about midnight.
Tuesday, 11th April 2000
Awoken at four by a coachload of schoolkids leaving the site. Packed our wet tents early, then went off to The Olgas, or Kata Tjuta.
I was feeling a little fragile, so took the short walk. When we left after lunch, for Kings Canyon, Hugh became increasingly concerned about the weather. We stopped to watch a storm, with lightning, which had settled over the area we were heading. Hugh was now worried that the creeks would fill and leave us stranded for maybe even a week!
When we arrived at Kings Canyon, the situation wasn't as bad as first thought. The campsite was a joy, grass, made the setting up of our tents easy, althugh they were still damp from Uluru.
With a campfire, some VB, and a cloudless sky, we enjoyed our last evening on the road.
Wednesday, 12th April 2000
Our last day, and a highlight - Kings Canyon. Leaving our tents to dry out, we headed for the walk to the canyon. A steep climb, before a comfortable stroll across the top, viewing the impressive rock formations.
It was here that Hugh decided to discuss "Men's Business". He sent the girls away and led us through a ritual of raising our arms, kissing the ground and touching the flora to become one with the earth, before instructing us to make a wish.
He then told us that he was psychic and knew what we had wished for, so he called the girls back. For a few nervous moments we weren't sure of our fate, but it was soon apparent when they appeared holding bikinis, brasm underwear etc.. to dress us up in. I was subjected to a pink bikini and sarong, with matching lipstick. Totally humiliated, or so we thought, we then had to walk for a further ten minutes or so, to The Garden of Eden, passing an endless stream of ridicule from tourists. A laugh at our expense, but good fun all the same.
When we had reached The Garden of Eden, we went for a swim and a look at the waterfall, running for the first time Hugh had been there. The view, once more, was superb.
We then headed back down to our bus, a walk of about an hour. when everyone was back, we returned to the campsite and had lunch, before packing up and leaving for Alice Springs.
Our route was to be along the Merenee Loop, a tough bone shaking ride via an Aboriginal settlement, Hermansberg.
Hugh told us to hide our beer, and valuables and shut all the windows and lock the door, when leaving the bus. Luckily, my absent mindedness proved to be a life saver for Hugh, when he realised he had locked the keys in! Any other time he said he would have throttled me!
Back on tarmac, we drove into Alice on time, at 6pm. Booked into Melanka's, sharing a deluxe room with Graham, Tess, and Gemma, Celine and Chevonne, 3 Irish girls.
In the evening, it was down to a local pub, Bojangles, for a last night meal and then onto Melanka's disco.
The meal was excellent; skippy and Chippies! nd we had a laugh as we all ended up on stage to sing a song from our different countries. Luckily, the pub was packed with Engish, so there were about 10 of us singing "Yellow Submarine" and "Wonderwall".
From the pub, to the disco, and a late night with highlights being Graham and Tess dirty dancing to win a jug of beer, and Helen totally pissed and molesting poor old Bruce!
Bed about 3.15am, after a quick game of pool, A good night!
Thursday, 13th April 2000
Up at 11am, a hot day and woke covered in sweat! Graham and I visited the Royal Flying Doctor Service Museum, and I got some photos developed. About four, Tess joined us on a 40 minute walk along the Todd River, to the telegraph station.
The sun was beginning to set, and as we walked back, we picked up the pace, concerned abut being down by the Tidd in the dark, not a sensible place to be. As it was, we had a piece of fruit thrown at us by persons unknown, and we were glad to make it back to the mall before it was dark.
In the evening, met up with some of the others for dinner at Annie's Place, before going to the cinema to see "Erin Bronkovich". Bed about midnight.
Friday, 14th April 2000
Up about 9am, Graham and Tess were leaving. Did some washing, used the internet, and updated my diary. It had become increasingly obvious that the next few days in Alice were going to be difficult to keep busy.
Evening, went up to Annie's Place, for dinner. early back, watched some TV,and it started to rain.
Saturday, 15th April 2000
Much the same today, did bugger all! Watched TV, while the rain continued.
Sunday, 16th April 2000
Further rain hampered any idea of sightseeing of a hot air balloon ride, so sat in most of the day with Gemma and Celine. New roommates arrived in the evening, and got the impression that C and G were lesbians, which the three of us found hilarious!
Monday, 17th April 2000
the rain continued, and I was concerned my trip out of Alice would be postponed. The three Irish girls left midday for Cairns, and I had to move rooms. Spent most of the day and evening sheltering from the rain, and watching yet more bloody television!
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